Having dessert at well-to-do cafes has become popular among affluent women. As a result, cafes catering to this upmarket crowd have opened throughout the city, each offering beautifully crafted treats. Celebrity pastry chef Toshi Yoroizuka’s shops in Ebisu and Tokyo Midtown are a prime example; expect a crowd if you visit at the weekend.

But those in need of a caffeine fix will not be short of cheaper options. The smoky Doutor (www.doutor.co.jp) chain has branches throughout the city, but foreign firms are penetrating the market and Starbucks (www.starbucks.com) has become a hit with the younger crowd. Dean & Deluca and Segafredo (www.segafredo.it) can also be found in the city, but are less common. These places tend to open early in the morning and close at around 21:00 or 22:00.

Privately owned spots offer a more unique experience. Both Cafe Heavens and Frames cater for a late night crew – only closing a few hours before others are getting ready to open. Retro cafes like Shichimencho and One’s Diner retain individual style, as does Calico Cat Cafe, where patrons can play with one of the moggies in residence. The quality of coffee varies between cafes, but places like Asuka have come to realise the importance of a good brew and offer a quality cup – complete with latte art.

Food varies from sandwiches to hot meals, but typically a set lunch of a main plus soup, salad, and coffee will be offered. If you visit late in the afternoon a coffee and cake set may be available.