Just to the north-east of Downtown are two of the oldest settled areas in Los Angeles, Highland Park and Mt Washington. The Gold Line light rail tram connects them to the inner city and they are bordered on the south-west by the Pasadena Freeway, constructed in 1940, and the oldest superhighway in the US. This is one of the most scenic areas in LA, centred on an oak-filled valley, the Arroyo Seco, and strewn with sprawling parks, wooded hills and Victorian architecture. The Gold line, which runs between Union Station Downtown to Pasadena, bisects the area, and there are stops for two of the most intriguing attractions in Southern California: Heritage Square and the Southwest Museum of the American Indian. Even the tram ride itself is a worthwhile trip; the tracks are elevated from Union Station to Chinatown and pass through wooded communities, cross dramatic bridges and stop at quaint shopping areas (where antiquing opportunities abound).

Heritage Square is a living history museum featuring eight structures built between the civil war and the early 20th century, and includes some true marvels of Victorian architecture. Southwest Museum currently holds one of the nation’s most important collections related to Native American culture. However, the galleries are currently closed due to the poor condition of the building, with the collection slated to move to improved premises in 2009. Check the website for details before visiting.

The area has experienced a wave of gentrification sparked by a new generation of renovation-minded home buyers searching for bargains in a wildly-fluctuating market, who found what they were looking for in the dilapidated craftsmen-style and river rock homes of the area. Many former dive bars and small family businesses have been snatched up by canny entrepreneurs and the main drag is taking on a distinctly hip new look.

One of the best ways to explore Mt Washington and Highland Park (www.nelaart.com) is on the monthly Northeast Los Angeles Arts Organization art walk on the second Saturday of each month, when home studios and lofts throughout the area open their doors to visitors.