Where Sunset Boulevard rises into the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains west of Crescent Heights Boulevard, it enters West Hollywood, and from there to Phyllis Street on the border with Beverly Hills, it is known as Sunset Strip, one of the most legendary stretches of roadway in the world. The giant billboards, nightclubs, chic shops and sidewalk bistros along The Strip constitute a long, sinuous community unto itself, undoubtedly the greatest people-watching place in LA. At night, when The Strip explodes in a blaze of neon and paparazzi flashes, it seems to vibrate with excitement as celebrities, celebrity spotters and wannabes crowd the sidewalk bars to revel in the unique glitzy atmosphere.

The Strip lies just outside of the Los Angeles city limits and beyond the authority of the Los Angeles Police Department. In the 1920s it became a magnet for casinos and nightclubs, where alcohol was served in back rooms. When prohibition ended, The Strip grew glamorous as movie stars, moguls and politicians came to dance at such legendary venues as the Garden of Allah, Mocambo, Ciro’s and the Trocadero. Things started to become a bit shabby in the 1960s as the stars and movie moguls sought new playgrounds, and the clubs became home to local bands. A youthful, energetic new vibe began to grow, and The Strip reinvented itself as a centre for rock. New clubs arrived, such as the Whisky a Go Go (8901 Sunset Boulevard; 310 652 4202), where The Doors got their start as the house band, and The Roxy (9009 Sunset Boulevard; 310 276 2222), where Bruce Springsteen’s career started. In later decades, the two were home to Metallica, Van Halen and Guns N’ Roses.
The Strip today is no longer a cradle of emerging music but the scene lives on in clubs such as The House of Blues at 8430 (323 848 5100; www.hob.com) and The Viper Room at 8852 (310 358 1881; www.viperroom.com), formerly owned by Johnny Depp, and where River Phoenix died of a drug overdose in 1993. A few blocks down and across the street is the Chateau Marmont. Built in 1929 based on the design of an existing Parisian chateau, it has been host to many major stars and visiting celebrities from all over the world. It was here that actor John Belushi died of a drug overdose. Just down the street is the Cajun Bistro at 8301 (323 656 6388). Its sidewalk cafe was the location for the final scenes of the Woody Allen film Annie Hall.

At 8440 Sunset Boulevard is the famed Mondrian (323 848 6025), which contains The Sky Room, one of the hottest nightspots in LA. The legendary Hollywood meeting spot Schwab’s Drug Store used to reside at 8024. Recently the site was occupied by a Virgin Megastore, but it closed early in 2008 – a victim of soaring rents and online music-buying. The Comedy Store at 8433 is the best venue for stand-up in LA. Richard Pryor and Jay Leno got their big breaks here. Sunset Tower at 8358 was previously known as The Argyle and almost every star in Hollywood has stayed there at one time or another. Completely renovated in the late 80s, this 13 storey landmark is today one of the best examples of the architecture of Hollywood’s ‘golden era’. Sunset Plaza at 8600 features trendy boutiques, outside cafes and cosy bars – you’re almost guaranteed to see a celebrity if you sit here long enough. Le Dome at 8720 (310 659 6919) is the restaurant of the rich and famous, and features a mammoth circular bar. The Rainbow Bar & Grill at 9015 (310 278 4232) was in former days The Villa Nova restaurant, where Vincente Minnelli (Liza’s father) proposed to Judy Garland and Marilyn Monroe had a blind date with baseball legend and future husband Joe DiMaggio.

The compact area is packed with more than 400 furniture and clothing designers, graphic artists and architects. It is also the centre of one of the largest gay communities on the west coast and the site of an annual gay, lesbian and transgender rights parade. The parade, on Santa Monica Boulevard in early June, is one of the best of its kind in the world and an unforgettable spectacle for all sexes (www.westhollywood.com).