First-time visitors are rarely prepared for les Grandes Vacances, when apartments, shops, even neighbourhoods empty, as Parisians pack their bags and head en masse to the coast. There are signs, though, that the tradition is changing – and, if it is, Paris-Plage is surely playing a part. Launched by Mayor Delanoë in 2002, the transformation of Seine quayside into beach resort is aimed at families who can't take a holiday away. Paris-Plage has proved a huge hit with locals and visitors alike – so much so that two more beaches have been created, turning parts of the remoter 13th and 19th arrondissements into fun-packed waterside playgrounds. Dressed with 3,000 tonnes of sand, parasols and palm trees, its razzmatazz and activities cater for all ages – and it’s all free. Paris-Plage unrolls its togs from late July to late August.