You won’t find the infamous prison in the place de la Bastille, and don’t be misled by the large column in the centre, either: it commemorates an entirely different revolution of July 1830. The spirit of 1789 does live on, though, in the political rallies that generally start or end here on the square. Dominating the space since 1989, the Opera Bastille (p.369) is the city’s premier opera venue, though there are still grumbles about its acoustics. The building has been compared to a ‘hippopotamus in a bathtub’; still, it’s doubtless an improvement on Napoleon’s giant plaster elephant, which once adorned the square. At the start of boulevard Richard Lenoir, the regular Saturday arts and crafts market is worth scanning for something original. Nearby, the rues de Lappe et de la Roquette attract a trendy young crowd with their fashionable restaurants, clubs and boutiques. You should also seek out the lively Oberkampf area to the north, for more in the way of a night-time vibe. If you’re in the mood for markets, you’ll find none livelier than the place d’Aligre which trades daily except Tuesdays, and includes a number of bric-a-brac stalls. The market is just south of the rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, a road that for centuries has been associated with master furniture makers. South of place de la Bastille, the marina of Bassin de l’Arsenal is pleasant to stroll around, and the start point for summer boat trips along the Canal St-Martin.