Amiens was more or less flattened during the Battle of Picardy in 1918, when somewhere in the region of 12,000 shells thundered down on the city. The ‘less’ is important though, because somehow, the Cathédrale de Notre-Dame was spared. Built in record speed during the 13th century, it’s reckoned to be one of the purest examples of Gothic monumental art. It’s also one of the biggest – it could hold Paris’ Notre-Dame over. From the square, you can’t fail to pause in awe at its facade, but the city lays on a splendid summer light show just to clinch the deal. Besides the cathedral, Amiens is a solidly likeable city. It’s a good base for visiting the battlefields of the Somme, but there’s enough to fill a weekend if you don’t. Near the cathedral, the medieval quartier of St-Leu, with its little marina and colourful houses, has a real holiday feel. To the east of here are Les Hortillonages, a tranquil expanse of ‘floating gardens’ criss-crossed by mini-canals. The Musée de Picardie is worth the visit, too; inside the splendid Second Empire building, there are frescos by Puvis de Chavannes, Italian masters and a surprising selection of 20th century art. Served by a direct train service, Amiens is 137km north of Paris.