To many long-time Kreuzbergers, the recent opening of a McDonald’s near Schlesisches Tor signalled the end of an anti-capitalist era. Still, the ‘golden arches’ haven’t exactly opened the floodgates – most shops here, whether selling clothing, household goods or fruit and veg, remain small, independent and locally owned.

Supermarkets and discount supermarkets – predominantly Kaiser’s, Lidl and Aldi – abound, and there are several organic supermarkets, including an LPG Biomarkt on Mehringdamm (030 694 7725, www.lpg-naturkost.de). One of Kreuzberg’s most characteristic shopping experiences is the open-air Turkish market held Tuesdays and Fridays along the Maybachufer. Main shopping drags include Oranienstrasse, traditionally the commercial thoroughfare of Turkish Kreuzberg; Schlesische Strasse, the place to buy trendy clothes by local designers; and Bergmannstrasse, home to gift and clothing shops with a somewhat older target audience.