It may lack the contemporary buzz of New York or London, but art-lovers will feel at home in Paris. All the major museums (and many more besides) lay on temporary shows, to which cultivated Parisians turn out in force. An entry fee is charged. When it comes to private galleries, the picture’s more complex. Many prestige galleries are in the Marais and St-Germain, with up-and-coming offerings clustered around rue Louise-Weiss (13th). Taking an Art Bus tour will give you some good insider leads into the contemporary and alternative scene. Look out, too, for the portes ouvertes (open days) offered by communities of artists of all disciplines. Held in spring or autumn, they’re a great opportunity to meet artists in their studios and discover the quartier at the same time. Most private galleries close on Sunday and Monday and virtually all in August.