With royal homes such as Versailles and Fontainebleau nearby, it’s easy to overlook more modest gems – though modesty, of course, is strictly relative. Several remarkable hôtels particuliers (mansions) offer an intimate window on the past. Topping the list are the 19th century home of art connoisseur, Edouard André, now the Musée Jacquemart-André, and the poignantly beautiful Musée Nissim de Camondo.