Many people get their first glimpse of Paris when they step out of the Eurostar terminal at the Gare du Nord. Despite ongoing makeovers, the area between this station and the shabbier Gare de l’Est errs on the louche side, and there’s no great reason to linger. Just north lies la Goutte d’Or (Drop of Gold). It’s a vibrant but poor African quartier and so far at least, city plans to create a hotbed of young designer creativity here haven’t come to much.

Aside from the railway, the other dominating feature is the Canal St-Martin. It transformed city trade when it opened in 1825. Today, it’s a real tourist asset and, whether you discover it by boat or on foot, it should certainly figure on your list. The canal extends all the way from boulevard de la Bastille to the place de Stalingrad. Here, beneath an impressive 18th century tollhouse (a leftover from the hated Mur des Fermiers-Généraux) it opens out into the Bassin de la Villette, before continuing as the Canal de l’Ourcq. It’s at its most pleasant between the quais Jemmape and de Valmy, a tree-lined stretch with a sprinkling of cafes and niche shops.