To the north of the city’s traditional commerce and business district, the grand magasins of Printemps and Galeries Lafayette on boulevard Haussmann have been rivals for more than a century. If the world’s largest beauty department doesn’t appeal, you should still brave the fray at Printemps for a peek at its 6th floor tearoom, crowned by a magnificent, jewel-coloured stained glass dome. The same applies to Galeries Lafayette, whose cosmetics floor resides beneath tiers of gorgeous, swagged galleries. Keep going to the open terrace on the 7th floor for outstanding views of Montmartre in all its chaotic glory (one floor below, the store’s free fashion show takes place every Friday).

A stone’s throw away is the Opera Garnier. Completed in 1875, it was every bit as controversial as Haussmann’s grand projects of the day. The story goes that when its obscure young architect was challenged by Empress Eugénie to define his design, he declared it to be ‘Napoléon III style’. Certainly, with its mix of embellishments and colours, there’s nothing else quite like it. If that whets your appetite, a tour of the interior won’t disappoint. Meanwhile, for those who don’t know their Second Empire from their Bourbons, the multimedia show at Paris Story on rue Scribe will offer some insights.