Unemployment and unlovely housing sum up Seine-Saint-Denis’ reputation, but it’s here that you’ll find one of France’s key heritage sites. The Gothic Basilique Saint-Denis is the burial place of monarchs, a tradition begun in the 7th century. East of here is the emblematic Stade de France, and at Le Bourget, the Musée de l’Air et d’Espace, an outstanding museum that will easily fill the best part of a day. All three can be reached on the RER, give or take a bus hop.

Further afield, Auvers-sur-Oise is a must for Impressionist fans. Van Gogh spent his last months here, leaving a legacy of 70 local paintings. The inn where he stayed has been restored and the Château has a good multimedia show. By train, Auvers is an hour’s ride from the Gare du Nord, with a direct service in summer. Top-notch equestrian entertainment – and a princely château – make an equally worthwhile outing to Chantilly. Last but not least, Parc Astérix offers a splashing good time in the company of the home-grown cartoon hero (note that the park is not open all year).