Topping the visiting list is Versailles; the royal château and grounds keep getting better with each new restoration. At the other end of the architectural spectrum, the business district of La Défense centred on la Grande Arche makes a surprisingly good stroll with its eighty-odd sculptures and quirky landscaping. Criticised as cold, it now looks poised for a renaissance, with iconic towers on the way, and more life on the plaza. West of Paris proper, some of the more sought-after suburbs include Sèvres and Boulogne-Billancourt, boasting museums on ceramics and 1930s art respectively, while the Parc de St-Cloud is wild enough for red squirrels, but near enough to afford a grandstand view of the city. By Rueil, the Château de Malmaison tends to be overshadowed by grander affairs. Finally, the upmarket suburb of St-Germain-en-Laye is entrenched in history, and a mere 20 minutes away. The ex-royal château now houses the national archaeology collection (01 39 10 13 00). Outside, Le Nôtre’s long terrace offers a very democratic panorama of the capital.