Conspicuous by its golden dome, the Hôtel des Invalides was built as a home for Louis XIV’s wounded soldiers. Inside, the Musée de l’Armée contains a stupefying collection of weaponry, though the powerful second world war exhibition has broader appeal. Its main claim to fame, though, is Napoleon’s tomb, which is deeply impressive if only for its sheer pomp and ugliness.

This area of embassies and government buildings includes the Hôtel Matignon, the home of France’s Prime Minister, on rue Varenne. The character alters along rue de Babylone towards Le Bon Marché department store. En route, you’ll pass the glorious, crumbling Pagode Cinema.

It’s also an area of outstanding museums. Adjacent to les Invalides, the gardens and mansion of the Musée Rodin are a delight. Not in the same league, but still worthwhile, the Musée Maillol (01 42 22 59 58) is north of Le Bon Marché. Further north, the irresistible Musée d’Orsay beckons on Quai d’Orsay. Between here and the new Musée du Quai-Branly, you’ll pass the grand loggia of France’s lower house, the Assemblée Nationale, the American Church and the kiosk of the Égouts de Paris. Good for a rainy day, a tour of the city’s sewers serves up a fascinating glimpse of the city’s moist underbelly.