You may tire of its image on everything from publicity campaigns to tea-towels, but up close the Eiffel Tower never fails to impress. Beyond, the regimented flowerbeds of the Champ de Mars were once the parade ground for the École Militaire, built under Louis XV to train soldiers (including, eventually, a young Napoleon). Further along the rather stuffy avenue Suffren are the Y-shaped headquarters of Unesco, cutting edge in 1958 but now looking sorely dated. A spirited market takes place on avenue de Saxe, and there’s further animation to the east on sassy, pedestrianised rue Cler.